What's the Pakistani / Indian border country really like?

It's a big mountain range with one way through at the Kyber P. There are forces from India and Pakistan who patrol the area. I doubt that anyone here has actuallly been there to tell you whehter there are checkpoints, artillery, etc. My understanding is it is often someone llike Taliban or local militia who will go there. I think it is pretty much open as there is little use for going through it. But, don't take my word for it.